Archive for the ‘louvre’ Tag

Summer on the Water – Paris and Beyond   7 comments

Time for the barrage of posts from our big summer holiday. When i looked through the photos the overall theme was one of on, in or by the water hence the overall title.

To kick things off we took the ferry over from Portsmouth to Ouistreham on our way to Paris.

The omens were good as we were the very first vehicle off the ferry which I was very pleased about. I’d done my research and found a great spot to stop for breakfast just around the corner from the port. I’d had great plans for a lovely al fresco breakfast an a stroll on the beach but sadly we’d brought the British summer across with us and breakfast was spent hiding inside the van while the drizzle soaked everything around us.

Onwards to Paris and our home for the next few nights at the Camping de Paris. Right next to Seine and the Bois de Boulogne park with a shuttle bus to the nearest metro station. A perfect base to see the city.

Even though we were right in the metropolitan area there was no real sense you were camping in a city. There was barely any traffic noise and the view across the Seine was great.

Due to the overnight ferry and the relatively short drive we were pitched up and in the centre of Paris by late afternoon.

It was just me and TBF at this point and we took a stroll from Place de la Concorde and into the Jardins de Tuileries.

And onwards to the Louvre.

I’m never quite sure as the reasoning behind the glass pyramids in the central courtyard but I really like them. They are nothing if not iconic.

We’ve never felt art galleries are really our thing so we’ve never been inside, especially as its crowded and expensive. We found a couple of spots where you can take a peek inside for free.

I liked this shot of the arrow straight Rue de Rivoli out the back.

After a very wet start to the day the sun was now out and it was lovely and wbedürftig. A far cry from the blistering heat of our visit last year.

There was a square behind the main courtyard I’d not seen before and its was delightful and quiet. There was a guy busking, singing opera and he was superb.

Its a magnificent palace and become one of my favourite spots in the city among many favourites.

I really like Paris and with all cities, a bit of research allows you to find the quieter spots away from the main tourist attractions like the Eiffel Tower.

Speaking of which, there it is poking above the skyline as we took a walk over the bridges of the Seine.

Looking to the Pont des Arts.

And the Pont Neuf, the oldest of the bridges and my favourite (hence it taking the place of the headline for the post)

They had this garden/shower running again. Not quite the god-send it was in 36C heat last year

We headed to the Saint Germain district of restaurants for an afternoon meal in a very fine fish place. A rare treat for us to have a meal together just the two of us.

The next day we increased our group by one as TJF joined us after catching the train (mainly to avoid a couple of spells of driving and the overnight ferry)

We had another excellent lunch in Saint Germain before taking a stroll along the river.

Past my favourite bridge.

Just after which was a very nice looking riverside bar overlooking the bridge. Well, it would have been rude not to stop for a beer.

It was a beautiful sunny afternoon and we wandered further along the river, over the Pont des Arts and back to Saint Germain for an ice cream.

They way they scooped this chocolate one into a flower was worth a photo I thought.

The next morning (and indeed on our first morning) me and TBF took a bike ride through the Bois de Boulogne park next to the campsite.

They have a myriad of paths and trails and its a great place for an easy hours ride.

In the centre of the park are some fairly extensive lakes and they were supremely beautiful and pretty much deserted.

It was, again, hard to believe we were in the heart of one of Europe’s biggest cities.

We collected TJF and headed back into the city. We spent a happy hour wandering along the canal St Martin. Another quiet and less frequented part of Paris, betagthough I’m not convinced I’d want to swim in it!

We were killing time ahead of a repeat boat trip along the canal and out onto the Seine.

We did the same trip last year and enjoyed it so much we decided to do it again. Considering it’s a two hour trip, takes you through locks, tunnels and along the Seine, past most of the major sights by the river and has a very entertaining commentary, the ?20 pp is pretty good value and I’d strongly recommend whenever you visit the city. As you can see the weather couldn’t have been more different to last year when we had to hide from the blistering heat. This time as we exited the tunnel it started to rain betagthough it stopped soon after and remained dry for the rest of the boat trip. You can see a more extensive post and photos of the trip in my post from last year

However, the skies were darkening and rain was clearly on the way. As we ate our evening meal soon after, the rain started in earnest and didn’t really stop for the next 18 hours.

It was a very wet last evening on the campsite, and an even wetter pack up before heading off on our two day journey to our main destination. Last year our drive through central France was characterised by serious heat, a parched landscape and eating inside service areas as it was too hot to picnic outside as we usually do. This time it hammered it down until early afternoon and the sun only came out as we approached our stopover in the Alps.

And what an excellent spot it was. Camping les Lacs de Maurienne, very quiet and un-commercialised and right next to a collection of small quarry lakes where we are able to take a lovely cool swim after a long day driving.

Just down the road is another favourite little place we’ve come across. A very quiet understated little Pizzeria, L’Escale Gourmande. You’d barely notice it driving past or even find it as its tucked away a quiet little village just off the main road. It has a really nice little terrace out back, the staff are really friendly and welcoming and the pizzas superb. Well worth seeking out if you are passing through.

To keep the stopover simple, TJF slept upstairs in the van and me and TBF slept in the pop up tent. This was the view from the front door of the tent in the morning.

Its a gorgeous spot in the alps foothills.

We restarted one of the pleasures of last years trip with an early morning swim. So peaceful and refreshing ahead of another long drive.

It was a shame we only stayed for the one night as the campsite was lovely and the area deserved more exploration

And a private family moment to finish off the post. We bought some of these Ringo biscuits on our first trip to Italy and they are dreadful. Rock hard, bone dry and tasteless (TBF loved them for some reason). At the service area we stopped off for lunch they sold them in enormous tubes which made us laugh in a way most onlookers probably though we were deranged. With that it was off on the final leg to our destination.

Paris – A walk Across the City   12 comments

It was a glorious sunny Sunday after our visit to the Tour Montparnasse so we decided on a walk through the city to tick off some sites. The famous Champs Elysees is closed to traffic on a Sunday so what better place to start. We pitched into the Metro and popped out at the famous landmark at the head of Paris most famous avenue.

Unlike the Eiffel Tower, the Arc de Triomphe was much bigger than I thought. It was built by Napoleon so he could march through it – triumphantly – when he won the war. Just one tiny flaw in that plan. He lost. Still he got the dubious compensation of having his ashes paraded through it. Not the same somehow

It sits in the middle of a vast and seemingly free for all traffic roundabout. It was scary just watching the traffic race around and especially the bikes nonchalantly wandering through. There was even one guy who sauntered straight across the lines of traffic without a care in the world. He could have been run over numerous times but he just gave a gallic shrug and wandered off.

The view towards La Defense

The tomb of the unknown soldier and eternal flame

We had thought about climbing to the top but we’d already had a great high view, there was a long queue and most importantly it cost money

We headed off down the Champs Elysees

Despite its fame I was underwhelmed. It is a rather grand broad boulevard but it’s just lined with expensive shops and hotels. I didn’t think it was anything special and there were certainly far better places we saw in Paris. We ate lunch from a cheerless chain sandwich shop sitting on the pavement. It was Sunday and all the bakeries were shut

Things improved from there. We wandered down a side street and found the Grand Palais and the Petit Palais and they were rather grand. Both were built for the Worlds Fair at the same time as the Eiffel Tower

The Petit Palais

The Grand Palais

The Grand Palais appeared to want more of my hard-earned cash but the Petit Palais was free. Easy decision

It was very impressive both inside and out. It had a fine collection of art and paintings but it’s not really our thing

We had a little wander about (the gardens were rather nice), used the loos and moved on.

Next stop was the Place de la Concorde with its granite obelisk gifted to France by Egypt in 1831 and is actually 3300 years old

It’s an impressive expanse and quite a feat to cross the flow of traffic to reach the centre. Fine views back along the Champs Elysees to the Arc de Triomphe

This is the Fontaine de Mers. It was rather odd but I really liked it

There seemed to be various mermaid types all with a keen hold on a fish. We called it the Fountain of Throttled Fish

From our travels I can safely say is that they do fountains really well in Europe. Almost every square has one and they are almost always well maintained and either interesting, intriguing or simply magnificent. I’m sure the UK has great city centre fountains but I’m struggling to recall one

Onwards into the Jardin des Tuileries. They were busy but magnificent on a sunny Sunday afternoon

They are packed with wide avenues, perfectly manicured lawns and flower beds and more fountains and ponds

Seating space was at a premium though so we admired while we moved through

At the far end of the gardens is the Palais de Louvre and its famous museum. I’d had it my mind that the museum would be an imposing yet bland building but is absolutely huge and quite stunning

At the centre is its famous pyramid. Again I had a preconceived idea that it would garish, zeitgemäß and out-of-place but I loved it. To me it seemed an appropriate merging of new old and it’s certainly unique. You stand by it and know its The Louvre

The fountains outside were also rather lovely and we sat outside and people watched for a few minutes and to rest our weary feet.

We had decided well ahead of time not to go in. as I said fine art is wasted on us and the queues and high cost were not worth the expense. From what I’ve read even if you only have a passing interest in art, the collection is magnificent, varied and absolutely vast. I read that if you merely glanced at every piece within you’d be in there for 9 months

We headed for home over the rather lovely footbridge, the Pont des Arts

Fine views across to my favourite bridge the twin spans of the Pont Neuf spanning the Ile de la Cite

And back downstream towards the Eiffel Tower

As we headed back to the flat for some rest and recuperation before a meal out we passed by the church of Saint Sulpice again

An absolutely splendid day in a beautiful city

%d bloggers like this: